Every once in a while a design idea comes along that you just can't stop thinking about, and that's exactly what happened here. This curtain started as an AI-generated image, and once I saw it, I knew I had to figure out how to turn it into something you could actually make with a hook and yarn. What you end up with is a flowing branch curtain, dotted with little flowers and leaves and finished off with an open mesh border at the top — and the best part is, you can size the whole thing to fit whatev er doorway or window you're dressing up.
Let's get into how it's made.
Quick Overview & Materials
This project comes together in four main pieces: the little flowers, the leafy branches, the mesh border (or "cenefa") that runs along the top, and a row of hanging tabs that let you slide the whole thing onto a support stick. Once everything is crocheted, it's just a matter of arranging and attaching.
What you'll need:
- A crochet hook sized to your yarn — a 4mm hook was used throughout this project, so if you're working with a similar worsted-weight yarn, that's a solid place to start. (If you're building out your hook collection, a set that ranges from small steel sizes up through the larger aluminum sizes, like the Nit Pro Waves 2.0 set, is a nice one to have on hand — it covers everything from 2mm up to 12mm in one case.)
- Green yarn for the branches and the border — you'll want about 100g.
- Yarn in your chosen flower colors — no more than 50g of each color is needed.
- An off-white or ecru yarn, which also gets used partway through the border.
- A wooden support stick or dowel — the kind sold at stationery and office supply stores for hanging posters or classroom charts works perfectly. This one was 90cm long, but you should measure your own doorway or window first and pick a stick length that fits, since the curtain is fully customizable to your space.
- A small amount of synthetic (silicone-style) fiberfill stuffing, for the branch stems.
- A hot glue gun, if you'd rather glue your flowers onto the branches instead of sewing them (totally optional — sewing works just as well if you don't want to use hot glue).
- A yarn/wool needle for weaving in ends and sewing pieces together.
- Stitch markers, to help keep track of your chain counts as you go.
Stitch Abbreviations Used
- ch — chain
- sl st — slip stitch
- sc — single crochet (called "punto bajo" in the original pattern)
- hdc — half double crochet ("medio punto alto")
- dc — double crochet ("punto alto")
- inc — increase (2 sc worked into the same stitch)
- dec — decrease (worked by taking the two front loops of a stitch together and completing it as a single stitch)
Part 1: The Flowers
Each flower is made in one piece — a small round center with six petals built directly onto it.
Center:
Start with a magic ring. Chain 1 to secure it, then work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and join with a sl st to the first sc. Chain 1. At this point you can cut your first color (this was worked in yellow in the original).
Petals (worked directly into the 6 sc):
Join your petal color (white in the original) into any one of the 6 stitches — as you work, you'll be hiding both the yellow and white yarn tails inside your stitches.
For each petal:
- Ch 2
- Work 2 dc into that same stitch
- Ch 2
- Join with a sl st back into the same stitch where you placed the 2 dc
That's one petal. Move to the next stitch around the center with a sl st, then repeat the exact same sequence (ch 2, 2 dc in the stitch, ch 2, sl st to close) for the second petal. Continue all the way around, working one petal into each of the 6 stitches, until you have 6 petals total.
Once your last petal is closed, leave the tails loose so you can trim them later. Weave in all your ends with the yarn needle — bring the white tail through to the back, then take the yellow tail from your starting magic ring and tie the two together at the back with a couple of simple knots before trimming close.
A quick note: if you'd rather sew your flowers onto the branches later instead of gluing them, leave a length of yarn tail long enough to sew with instead of trimming it short — how much you leave will depend on how many branches and flowers you're attaching.
Repeat this whole flower pattern as many times as you'd like flowers on your finished curtain.
Part 2: The Branches
The branches are worked in green and start with a small rounded "drop" shape at the tip, which then extends into a long chain with leaves worked along its length. There are two branch variations — Branch 1 and Branch 2 — which are identical except for where the first leaf sits, so that when you alternate them across your curtain, the leaves and flowers end up staggered rather than lined up in a straight row.
The Branch Tip ("Drop"/Teardrop) — make one for every branch
Round 1: Magic ring, work 6 sc into the ring, close. (6 sts)
Round 2: Work an inc (2 sc) in every stitch around. (12 sts)
Rounds 3–4: Sc in each stitch around, no shaping, for both rounds. (12 sts each round)
Round 5: Work the sequence "1 sc, dec" four times around. (8 sts)
Round 6: Sc in each stitch around, no shaping. (8 sts) — This is the round where you start adding a small amount of stuffing. You don't need much; if you'd like the tip to feel a bit more solid, you can add a touch of hot glue inside and let it cool before adding a little more stuffing and continuing.
Round 7 (final round): Work 4 decreases evenly around, taking the two front loops of each stitch together and closing it as one stitch each time.
To close: Work a single sc taking both the front and back of the piece together, flattening the tip closed.
Branch 1
- Chain 18 from the tip you just made, and place a stitch marker in chain 18 — this is where your first leaf will sit.
- Chain 10 more for the leaf itself.
- Work the leaf as follows, starting in the first chain: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc (second half-double), 3 dc (one in each of the next 3 chains), 2 hdc (one in each of the next 2 chains), 1 sc in the last chain. Turn slightly and work a second sc into that same last stitch.
- Now work back down the other side of the same starting chain, mirroring what you just did: 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc.
- Join with a sl st into your very first sc stitch to close the leaf.
- To get back to the branch, work slip stitches down the center of the leaf — 9 slip stitches total — then remove your stitch marker and close with a sl st into chain 18.
- Chain 24 more to reach your next leaf position, place a stitch marker, chain 10, and repeat the exact same leaf (sc, hdc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, hdc, sc, turn, mirror side back: hdc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, hdc, sc, join with sl st), then work 9 slip stitches back down the center to return to the branch and close with a sl st.
- Repeat "chain 24, leaf" until you've made 6 leaves total.
- Finish Branch 1 with a final 24 chains after the last leaf, then cut your yarn.
Her finished Branch 1 measured about 87 cm from end to end — but the length is entirely up to you. Work more or fewer chains between leaves depending on how long you'd like each branch to be.
Branch 2
Branch 2 uses the exact same leaf pattern as Branch 1 — the only difference is where the first leaf starts, so it staggers nicely against Branch 1 once both are attached to the curtain.
- After making your teardrop tip, chain 30 (instead of 18) and place a stitch marker in chain 30.
- Chain 10 for the leaf and work it exactly as described above (sc, hdc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, hdc, sc, turn, mirror the other side, join with sl st).
- Work 9 slip stitches back down the center of the leaf to return to the branch, close with a sl st.
- Chain 24 to reach each subsequent leaf position, repeating the same leaf pattern each time, until you have 6 leaves total (same as Branch 1).
- Finish Branch 2 with just 12 chains after the last leaf (rather than 24), then cut your yarn.
Make as many of each branch as you'd like — the number depends entirely on how wide your finished curtain needs to be, and how full you want it to look. Alternate Branch 1 and Branch 2 as you go so the leaves and flowers end up interlocking nicely once assembled: leaf, flower, leaf, flower, leaf, flower, and so on.
Part 3: The Cenefa (Top Mesh Border)
The border is worked flat, in rows, as an open mesh — think of it like a lacy filet strip that will sit along the top of your curtain, above the branches.
Getting your width: Before you start, measure the door frame or window you're planning to decorate, and chain to that width. In the original, 160 chains gave a finished width of about 82 cm (roughly 32 inches) — use that as a reference point, but chain to whatever number matches your own space.
Row 1 (foundation row): Once you've chained to your desired width, chain 5 more stitches at the end (these extra chains set up your first stitch and the mesh spacing for the row). Skip the first base chain, then work a dc into the next chain. From there, work the mesh pattern across: chain 1, skip the next base chain, and dc into the following chain. Repeat "chain 1, skip a chain, dc in the next chain" all the way across to the end of the row. If you end up with an extra stitch that throws the count off right at the very end, you can simply skip it and continue — a stitch here or there at the edge won't affect the overall look.
Row 2 and all following rows: Chain 4 to turn (these 4 chains count as your first dc plus the first chain-1 space). Work "chain 1, dc into the next dc from the row below" across the entire row, landing your final dc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row.
She worked 3 rows in green, then switched to the off-white/ecru color and worked 4 more rows, for 7 rows total — all worked straight across with no increases or decreases anywhere in the mesh.
Changing colors mid-row: When you're ready to switch, work up to your last stitch in the old color. Bring your new color up and then back down, and do the same with the old color — bring it up and back down. Cross the two tails at the back and tie them with a simple knot (if it happens to come loose, don't stress, just pick it back up and keep going). Pick up your new color, chain 4 to turn, and continue the same mesh pattern in the new color for as many rows as you'd like.
Part 4: The Hanging Tabs
These little tabs sit along the top edge of the border and are what let you slide your support stick through to hang the whole curtain. You'll work several of them evenly spaced across the top.
For each tab:
- Join your yarn into the mesh at your chosen starting point. Work the first stitch as a double chain, holding both yarn tails together as you go, to help secure and hide them as you work.
- Work a total of 5 dc spaced across the mesh row below, placing them into the chain-spaces and stitch-tops of the row (the chain space between stitches counts as one of your 5).
- Row 2 of the tab: Chain 3 (this counts as your first dc), turn, and work dc back across, with your 5th and final dc landing in the 3rd chain of your turning chain.
- Continue working back and forth this way for a total of 7 rows, so the tab is long enough to fold over your support stick once it's threaded through.
- Finish with a chain 1 and fasten off securely, cutting your yarn with a long enough tail to sew with (this makes finishing much easier than working with short ends).
Attaching each tab: Using your yarn needle, sew through the top stitch of the tab and then the bottom stitch, going back and forth a few times to join the two ends securely into a folded loop.
Spacing: Count 10 dc along the top edge of your border, and on the 11th stitch, join your yarn and start a new tab. Repeat this spacing — 10 stitches across, tab on the 11th — all the way along the border. In total, 8 tabs were made for the curtain in the original, but you can adjust the number depending on the width of your own piece.
Whichever side you consider the "front" when you make your very first tab, stick with that same orientation for every tab after it, so they all sit facing the same way once the curtain is finished.
Assembly
- Arrange your branches. Lay out your finished Branch 1s and Branch 2s, alternating between them so the leaves and flowers face forward and interlock nicely rather than lining up in a straight row.
- Add the flowers. Attach your crocheted flowers to the branches with hot glue, or sew them on if you'd rather skip the glue gun. Keep an eye on the alternating pattern as you go — leaf, flower, leaf, flower — so the finished branch has a natural, balanced look.
- Attach the branches to the border. Position each finished branch along the bottom edge of your mesh border, making sure all the leaves and flowers are facing forward. Secure each branch by threading its yarn tail into the border mesh, tying it with three knots, and then weaving the tail through the chains with your yarn needle until it disappears completely. Trim any excess.
- Hang it up. Slide your support stick through the row of tabs along the top, then hang your finished curtain in your doorway or window frame of choice.
And that's the whole thing — a soft, botanical curtain built entirely from chains, mesh, and a handful of tiny flowers. It takes a bit of patience to get through all those branches, but once it's hanging in a doorway or framing a window, it's absolutely worth every round. If you make one, I'd genuinely love to see how yours turns out — subscribing to the channel and sharing the video are always the easiest ways to help out and stay updated on new patterns as they come.
