My cats have taken over my workspace again, which somehow always seems to happen right when it's time to sit down and make something new. So while they get comfortable, let's talk about everything you need to know before diving into this bunny.
This is a full walkthrough of the techniques and rounds that make up an amigurumi bunny plushie — the head, the legs, the body, the hands, the little heart, the ears, and the bow that ties it all together. If you've never made an amigurumi plushie before, it's worth getting comfortable with the basics first (magic rings, increases, invisible decreases) since this pattern builds on all of them. Once you've got the rhythm down here, you'll be able to apply it to just about any amigurumi plushie going forward.
Quick Overview & Materials
Yarn: Any kind works for this project — fluffy, cotton, or acrylic. Fluffy yarn looks adorable on the finished bunny, but it can be trickier to see your stitches while you're working, so if you're newer to amigurumi, it's worth practicing with regular yarn first before moving to fluffy.
Hook: Use a hook size appropriate for the yarn you've chosen. A 4.5mm hook works well for worsted-weight yarns if you're not sure where to start.
Notions you'll need:
- A plastic yarn needle (for sewing pieces together)
- A stitch marker, or a bobby pin works just as well
- Safety eyes
- Stuffing — you don't need to buy this new. An old cushion or pillow works great; just cut a small hole and pull the stuffing out from inside.
Skill level: Beginner-friendly, but comfort with basic amigurumi techniques (magic ring, single crochet, increases, and invisible decreases) will make this much smoother. If this is your very first amigurumi project, get familiar with those core techniques before starting the bunny — it'll make every part of this pattern click into place much faster.
A note on the full pattern: Some of the later rounds (the remaining increase rounds for the head, the exact number of repeat rounds, and the specific decrease round counts) come from the full written pattern rather than being spelled out stitch-by-stitch here. Wherever that's the case, this guide tells you exactly how to work the rounds and what pattern to follow — you'll just want the complete written pattern on hand for the specific round counts for your size.
Stitch Abbreviations Used
- sc – single crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- inc – increase (2 single crochets worked into the same stitch)
- dec – invisible decrease (explained in detail below)
- sl st – slip stitch
- yo – yarn over
Techniques You'll Use Throughout This Pattern
Starting Your Circle (Magic Ring Alternative)
If you don't want to use a magic ring, here's the slip knot and chain method used throughout this pattern — it gives you the exact same result:
- Make a regular slip knot.
- Chain 4.
- Insert your hook into your very first chain.
- Grab your loop and slide it through both loops on your hook to slip stitch, forming a circle.
- Stretch out your chains gently. You'll see a little circle form in the middle of them — that's your magic ring. You'll insert all your first-round stitches into this circle.
Marking Your Rounds
Every single round in this pattern is worked continuously (not joined), so you always need to mark your very first stitch of each round with a stitch marker or bobby pin. Once you work back around to that marked stitch, you'll know your round is complete. Move your marker to the new first stitch every time you start a new round — don't skip this step, even when it feels repetitive.
The Increase
An increase is simply 2 single crochets worked into the same stitch. Insert your hook into a stitch, work your single crochet as normal, then without moving to the next stitch, work a second single crochet into that exact same stitch.
The Invisible Decrease
This is how you shape the plushie inward without leaving a visible gap:
- Your next stitch has two loops — a front loop and a back loop. Insert your hook under just the front loop of that stitch.
- Push your hook down and grab the front loop of the next stitch as well. You should now have 3 loops on your hook.
- Yarn over and pull through 2 of those loops.
- Yarn over again and pull through the remaining 2 loops on your hook to complete the stitch.
This combines two stitches into one, decreasing your stitch count by 1 each time you do it. Remember that once you've worked a decrease, your next stitch starts fresh in the following stitch — don't work into a stitch you've already decreased.
Part 1: The Head
Round 1
Make your magic ring (or slip knot and chain circle). Work 8 single crochets into the ring. Mark your very first single crochet so you know where your round starts and ends. Once you have 8 stitches in place, pull the tail end snug to close up the circle.
Round 2 (Increase Round)
Starting from your marked stitch, work an increase (2 sc) into every single stitch around. Mark the first stitch of this new round as you go. By the end of this round, you should have 16 stitches.
Round 3
Work the pattern: 1 single crochet, then an increase — repeat this pattern all the way around. Mark your first stitch as always. Count your stitches at the end of the round to confirm you're on track before moving forward.
Round 4
Work the pattern: 2 single crochets, then an increase — repeat all the way around, marking your first stitch as usual.
Round 5
Work the pattern: 3 single crochets, then an increase — repeat all the way around.
Continuing the Increase Rounds
From here, the pattern keeps the same structure — you're just adding one more single crochet before each increase as you go (so your next round would be 4 sc + increase, then 5 sc + increase, and so on). Follow the full written pattern for the exact number of increase rounds needed to reach the finished head size, since this determines your bunny's final head measurement.
Repeat Rounds
Once you've finished all your increase rounds, you'll move into repeat rounds. These are simple: work 1 single crochet into every single stitch around, with no increases or decreases. The total stitch count stays exactly the same round after round — you're just building height for the head. Mark your first stitch every round like always, and work as many repeat rounds as your written pattern calls for to reach the correct head length.
Decrease Rounds
Once your head reaches the right height, it's time to shape it back inward using the same invisible decrease technique explained above. The pattern here follows the same structure as your increase rounds, but instead of increasing, you're decreasing: for example, working a set number of single crochets and then an invisible decrease, repeated all the way around, and reducing further with each following round. Follow your written pattern for the specific stitch counts on each decrease round, using the invisible decrease method above wherever the pattern calls for a decrease. Add stuffing to the head as it starts to close, adjusting it as you go so it fills out evenly before you finish decreasing completely.
Part 2: The Legs
Starting the Leg
Make a magic ring, or use the slip knot and chain 4 method described above (this is especially helpful if you're working with fluffy yarn, since it gives you a bit more control over your stitches).
Round 1
Work 8 single crochets into your circle. Mark your first stitch of the round.
Round 2 (Increase Round)
Work an increase into every single stitch around until you reach a total of 16 stitches.
Round 3
Work the pattern: 1 single crochet, then an increase — repeat all the way around. This brings your leg up to its full width for joining to the body later.
Repeat Rounds
Switch to repeat rounds: 1 single crochet in every stitch, round after round, with no increasing or decreasing. This is where you build the length of the leg rather than the width. Work as many repeat rounds as your pattern specifies for the leg length you want.
Finishing the First Leg
Once your leg reaches the length you want, fasten off by slip stitching into the stitch where your marker is, then cut your yarn.
Making the Second Leg
Repeat all of the steps above (Round 1 through the repeat rounds and fasten off) to make an identical second leg.
Part 3: Joining the Legs and Building the Body
Joining the Two Legs
Take the stitch on your second leg where your stitch marker currently sits and line it up with the stitch on your first leg where you fastened off (your slip stitch point). Insert your hook through both and work a slip stitch to join them together.
The Joining Round
Now you'll work all the way around both legs together to form the base of the body:
- Skip the two slip stitches used to join the legs (these don't count as working stitches).
- Single crochet into each of the remaining stitches around the first leg.
- When you reach the join, skip the slip stitch again and continue single crocheting around the second leg.
Each leg contributes 24 stitches, so once you've worked all the way around both legs, you should have a total of 48 stitches. Mark the very first stitch of this new combined round (where your bobby pin started) so you know where your next round begins.
Repeat Rounds for the Body
From here, work repeat rounds (1 single crochet in every stitch, all 48 stitches, with no skipping needed since your base round is already established) until your body reaches the length specified in your pattern. It's completely normal to see a small hole where the two legs meet at the base — you can leave it as is, since it's barely noticeable once the bunny is finished, or you can stitch it closed afterward with your yarn needle if it bothers you.
Decrease Rounds for the Body
Once your body is the right length, begin your decrease rounds. The structure is the same as your increase rounds, just worked in reverse with invisible decreases instead: for example, working 4 single crochets and then an invisible decrease, repeated all the way around. Continue following your written pattern's decrease rounds using the same invisible decrease method described above, reducing the stitch count further with each round.
Finishing the Body
Once you've completed your decrease rounds, fasten off by slip stitching into the marked stitch and cutting your yarn.
Part 4: Attaching the Head to the Body
Thread your plastic needle with yarn. Line up the stitches around the base of the head with the stitches at the top of the body — they should have the same stitch count, which makes lining them up much easier. Sew through a stitch on the body and the corresponding stitch on the head, pulling gently but securely as you go all the way around. Tie a knot to secure once you've gone all the way around, and weave in your ends.
Part 5: The Hands
Once you've worked the hand piece following your written pattern's stitch and round counts, you'll close it up using this method:
- Remove your stitch marker and fold your piece flat so that your working yarn tail ends up at the end.
- Turn your work.
- Insert your hook through one stitch and the corresponding stitch directly across from it on the other side, then slip stitch them together.
- Repeat this across the piece, working through both layers each time.
- Before closing it completely, add a small amount of stuffing to just the rounded, puffy part of the hand — leave the flat section unstuffed so it stays flat and closed.
- Continue slip stitching until the piece is fully closed.
- Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough that you can use it later to sew the piece onto the body.
Part 6: The Heart
The heart follows the exact same structure as the legs, just smaller and with two identical pieces joined together.
Round 1
Instead of 8 single crochets, work 6 single crochets into your magic ring or starting circle. This smaller starting count is what makes the heart pieces come out proportionally smaller. Mark your first stitch as always.
Note: with such a small first round, it can be genuinely tricky to get your hook into that very first stitch again — this is normal, so don't worry if it takes a bit of extra effort.
Remaining Rounds
From here, follow the same round structure as the legs (increase rounds, then repeat rounds if needed) according to your written pattern, using the smaller stitch counts appropriate to the heart's size. Mark your first stitch every round exactly as you have throughout.
Joining the Two Heart Pieces
Once both heart pieces are complete:
- Slip stitch into the stitch where your marker is on the first piece to fasten off that round.
- Move to the next stitch and single crochet — this becomes the first stitch of your new joining round. Mark it.
- Skip the slip stitch and continue single crocheting around the remainder of the first piece.
- Move onto the second heart piece, skip its slip stitch, and single crochet all the way around it as well.
Since each piece has 12 stitches, you should end up with a total of 24 stitches once both pieces are joined into a single round.
Repeat Round
Skip the slip stitch from your joining round and work a repeat round: 1 single crochet in each of the 24 stitches. Mark your first stitch as usual.
Continuing the Heart Pattern
Continue following the rest of your written heart pattern from here.
Closing the Heart
On your very last round, skip any plain single crochets — this final round is worked in decreases only, all the way around, to close the heart shape completely. Before you finish this final decrease round, add your stuffing so the heart is filled before it closes up. Once fully decreased, cut your yarn, tighten, and tuck the end into one of the stitches to hide it.
Part 7: Attaching the Heart to the Hands
Using your yarn needle, sew through both the heart piece and the hand piece, adjusting the placement until you're happy with how it sits. Tie a small knot to secure the two pieces together — make sure you're tying this knot on the back of the heart so it stays hidden from the front. Repeat this on the other side to attach the second hand.
Part 8: Sewing the Hands to the Body
With your needle still threaded, sew through a stitch on the hand/arm piece and then through a corresponding stitch on the body, pulling to secure. Continue this all the way around, adjusting the position of the hand as you go so it's placed exactly where you want it on the bunny. Once you reach the end, pull everything tight, take a last look to make sure the placement looks right, and tie a knot to secure it. Cut your yarn and use your hook to tuck the end into a nearby stitch to hide it.
Part 9: The Ears
Once you've worked your ear piece according to the written pattern, you should have a small circular piece. To turn it into an ear shape:
- Fold the circle in half and flatten it out.
- Remove your stitch marker and turn your work.
- Insert your hook through the stitches on one end of the fold and the corresponding stitches on the other end.
- Single crochet through both layers together to join them.
- Repeat this across the piece, working through both layers each time. This folds and seals the piece into the curved ear shape.
Once you've worked all the way across, fasten off by pulling your yarn through and cutting it.
Attaching the Ears
Thread your needle and sew through the base of the ear and into the stitch on the head where you want to attach it. Once you're happy with the placement, tie a knot to secure it in place. Continue sewing through the base of the ear and the head repeatedly to reinforce the attachment, pulling gently as you go, until the ear feels securely attached.
Part 10: The Bow
Take your pink yarn (or whatever color you'd like for the bow) and tie it around the base of one of your bunny's ears in a regular bow, just like tying a shoelace. Adjust the loops and tails until the bow sits the way you like it, then trim any excess yarn from the ends.
You're Done!
And that's your amigurumi bunny complete — head, legs, body, hands, heart, ears, and bow all sewn together. If you're new to amigurumi, don't be discouraged if your stitch counts are a little off here and there on your first attempt; it happens to everyone, and it gets easier with every piece you make. Take your time, especially with fluffy yarn (it really is trickier to see your stitches in), and don't rush the sewing and assembly stage — that's where the bunny really comes together.
Happy stitching!
