Some amigurumi projects are quick weekend makes, and then there's Teodoro. This one is a slow, detailed build — the kind of pattern you sit with over several evenings, adding one small piece at a time until a genuinely elegant little character comes together. Between his three-toed feet, his tiny shirt collar, and his very serious little sandals with buttons instead of flowers (he's simply not a flowers kind of goose), there's a lot of personality packed into this design.
This part of the pattern walks you through Teodoro's feet, legs, body, neck, head, and his sandals from start to finish. Grab your yarn and settle in — this one's worth taking slowly.
Quick Overview & Materials
You'll need about 100g of each color listed below — it's fine if you have some left over, but it's better to have more than you need than to run short partway through.
- Cream or ecru (crudo), 100% cotton thread — this is the base color for Teodoro's whole body, and it pairs beautifully with a size 3 (3mm) hook.
- A dark gray, sometimes described as "tobacco," or any shade a bit darker than your cream base — plus a light gray. Both are used together for his little outfit.
- Tomato or "zapote" (a warm orange-red) — for his feet and beak.
- A brown/coffee color and a honey color — used for the little bag Teodoro carries and for the base of his sandals.
- Buttons in brown, white, and clear/transparent, for the small details that finish off his face.
- A size 3 (3mm) crochet hook.
- A yarn/wool needle.
- Stitch markers.
- Fine black thread, for embroidering his facial details.
- A 30cm length of galvanized wire.
- A few wooden skewers bundled together — thick ones if you have them, or several thin ones bundled together if that's what's on hand. These go inside the center of the body to give Teodoro some internal support and stability.
- Fiberfill stuffing.
Stitch Abbreviations Used
- ch — chain
- sc — single crochet ("punto bajo")
- inc — increase (2 sc worked into the same stitch)
- dec — decrease (2 stitches worked together as one)
- sl st — slip stitch
- BLO — back loop only
- FLO — front loop only
Part 1: The Feet (make 2 complete feet, each with 3 toes)
Each foot starts as three separate toe pieces, worked in the tomato/zapote color, which then get joined together into one foot.
The Toes (make 3 identical toes per foot)
Round 1: Magic ring, work 5 sc into the ring, close.
Round 2: Work an inc in each of the 5 stitches around. (10 sts)
Round 3: Sc in each stitch around, no shaping. (10 sts)
Make 3 of these toe pieces for each foot. Cut the yarn on the first two toes. On the third toe, leave the yarn attached — you'll use it to join all three toes together into the foot.
Joining the Toes into the Foot
Round 4 (the joining round): With the yarn still live on your third toe, work 5 sc across it. Move to the next toe and work 5 sc across it, catching and enclosing the tail from the first toe as you go so it gets hidden inside your stitches (you can trim that tail close once it's secured). Continue to the remaining toe and work 10 sc across it — this is the point where the round wraps around the tip of the foot. From there, work 5 sc back along the other side of the center toe, then finish with 5 more sc across the last section to complete the round.
This gives you a total of 30 sc for round 4 (5 + 5 + 10 + 5 + 5).
Round 5: Sc in each stitch around, no shaping. (30 sts)
Round 6: Work "3 sc, dec" around. Place a stitch marker here to help you track your rounds going forward. (24 sts)
Round 7: Sc in each stitch around, no shaping. (24 sts)
Round 8: Work "6 sc, dec" around. (21 sts)
Round 9: Sc in each stitch around, no shaping. (21 sts)
Round 10: Work "5 sc, dec" around. (18 sts)
Rounds 11–13: Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 18 sts each of these 3 rounds.
Round 14: Work "1 sc, dec" around. (12 sts)
Round 15 (final round): Work dec straight around — decreases only, no plain stitches. (6 sts)
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Stuff the foot firmly before closing it completely. Using your yarn needle, close the remaining 6 stitches by taking the front loop of each one, pulling through, and cinching tight to close the opening completely.
Leave the tail nice and long here, because you'll also use it to close up the small gaps at the center where the toes meet — sew each of these little junctions closed individually with a few small stitches so no stuffing peeks through, working around each toe base until everything looks neat and tidy.
Building the Leg Shaft
Once your foot is fully shaped and closed at the toes, you'll pick the zapote/tomato yarn back up at round 5 (the flat, straight 30-stitch round, before any of the toe decreases began) to start building the leg upward from there.
With the foot oriented so the toes point away from you, rejoin your yarn at round 5 and work 16 sc evenly spaced into those base stitches, distributing them around the circle to form a smaller-diameter tube sitting on top of the wider foot base — this becomes the start of the leg.
Round 1 of the leg: The 16 sc you just worked, joined into a round. (16 sts)
Rounds 2–10 (9 more rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 16 sts each round, still in the zapote/tomato color, for a total of 10 rounds at 16 stitches.
Round 11: Change to your cream/base color here (just switch straight into the new color rather than using an invisible color-change technique). Work "7 sc, inc" twice around. (18 sts)
Rounds 12–15: Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 18 sts each of these 4 rounds.
Round 16: Work "2 sc, inc" around. (24 sts)
Rounds 17–23 (7 rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 24 sts each round, giving the leg its length and width.
This completes one full leg and foot piece. Cut the yarn. Now make a second, identical leg and foot following this entire sequence again — but this time, don't cut the yarn at the end, since you'll use it to join the two legs together.
Part 2: Joining the Legs and Starting the Body
Cut the yarn on your first leg. Keep the second leg's yarn live, and position that leg facing you, folded flat at the center.
Work 10 sc across the flattened opening of this second leg, then chain 4. Flatten your first leg the same way, lining it up so you're working exactly one stitch before the point where round 23 ended, and continue in a straight round across all the openings: 10 sc, chain 4, then continue around.
Round 1 of the body (the leg-joining round): In total, this round comes to 56 sc, made up as follows: 24 sc across the opening of one leg, 4 sc worked into the front loop only of your first chain-4 bridge, 24 sc across the opening of the second leg, and 4 sc worked into the front loop only of the second chain-4 bridge. (24 + 4 + 24 + 4 = 56 sts)
Rounds 2–7 (6 rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 56 sts each round.
Round 8: Work 24 sc, then work 4 increases in a row (adding 4 extra stitches here to give Teodoro a slightly rounded belly), then continue plain sc for the rest of the round to complete it. (60 sts)
Rounds 9–16 (8 rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 60 sts each round, giving the torso its height. If you'd like Teodoro to wear a little shirt under his vest, this is the point to switch to a slightly darker cream shade for these 8 rounds — if you'd rather skip the shirt detail and just give him a vest over the plain base color, simply continue in your main color instead.
Round 17: Start with 4 sc, then dec, then continue working "8 sc, dec" around for the rest of the round. (54 sts)
Rounds 18–20 (3 rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 54 sts each round.
Round 21: Work "7 sc, dec" around. (48 sts)
Rounds 22–25 (4 rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 48 sts each round.
Round 26: Start with 3 sc, then dec, then continue working "6 sc, dec" around for the rest of the round. (42 sts)
Rounds 27–29 (3 rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 42 sts each round.
Round 30: Work "5 sc, dec" around. (36 sts)
Rounds 31–32 (2 rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 36 sts each round.
Round 33: Start with 2 sc, then dec, then continue working "4 sc, dec" around for the rest of the round. (30 sts)
Rounds 34–35 (2 rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 30 sts each round.
Round 36: Work "3 sc, dec" around. (24 sts) At the end of this round, change to your shirt/collar color — a shade just slightly different from your main cream, used to give this little detail some contrast.
Part 3: The Neck and Shirt Collar
Round 37: In your new shirt color, sc in each stitch around, working through the back loop only (BLO). (24 sts) This leaves the front loops free — you'll use them a little later for a decorative collar detail. Once this round is done, cut the shirt-color yarn and pick your main body color back up.
Rounds 38–44 (7 rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 24 sts each round, building up the neck.
Round 45: Work "3 sc, inc" around, working this entire round into the front loop only (FLO) — this is the free loop line you left behind back at round 37. (30 sts)
Round 46: Start with 2 sc, then inc, then continue working "4 sc, inc" around for the rest of the round. (36 sts)
Round 47: Work "5 sc, inc" around. (42 sts)
Round 48: Start with 3 sc, then inc, then continue working "6 sc, inc" around for the rest of the round. (48 sts)
Round 49: Work "7 sc, inc" around. (54 sts)
Rounds 50–59 (10 rounds): Sc in each stitch around, no shaping — 54 sts each round, giving the head its height.
Part 4: Shaping the Head
Round 60: Work "7 sc, dec" around. (48 sts)
Round 61: Work "6 sc, dec" around. (42 sts)
Round 62: Work "5 sc, dec" around. (36 sts)
Round 63: Work "4 sc, dec" around. (30 sts)
Round 64: Work "3 sc, dec" around. (24 sts)
Round 65: Work "2 sc, dec" around. (18 sts)
Round 66: Work "1 sc, dec" around. (12 sts)
Round 67 (final round): Work dec straight around — decreases only. (6 sts)
Stuff the head fully, working the fiberfill in evenly so the shape stays smooth, then close the final small opening the same way you closed the feet earlier — taking the front loop of each remaining stitch with your yarn needle, pulling snug to cinch it closed, and weaving the tail through to secure it before trimming.
Part 5: The Sandals (make 2 sandals, each with 2 soles)
Each sandal is built from two identical sole pieces — one crocheted in honey/miel and one in dark coffee/café oscuro — joined together, plus a small strap ("capellada") and a button on each side.
The Soles (make 2 per sandal — 1 honey, 1 dark coffee — so 4 soles total across both sandals)
Foundation: Chain 6.
Round 1: Skip the last chain closest to your hook. Work 4 sc down the chain. In the very last chain, work 3 sc all into that same stitch to turn the corner. Continue back along the other side of the foundation chain, working 3 sc into the next stitch, and finish the round with 1 inc. (4 + 3 + 3 + 2 = 12 sts)
Round 2: Work 1 inc, then 3 sc, then 3 increases in a row, then 3 sc, then finish with 2 more increases. (2 + 3 + 6 + 3 + 4 = 18 sts)
Round 3: Work 1 sc, 1 inc, then 3 sc, then work "1 sc, inc" three times, then 3 sc, then finish working "1 sc, inc" two more times. (1 + 2 + 3 + 9 + 3 + 6 = 24 sts)
Round 4: Work 2 sc, 1 inc, then 3 sc, then 2 sc + inc, then 2 sc + inc, then 2 sc + inc, then 3 sc, then finish working "2 sc, inc" two more times. (4 + 3 + 4 + 4 + 4 + 3 + 8 = 30 sts)
Round 5: Work 3 sc, 1 inc, then 3 sc, then work "3 sc, inc" three times, then 3 sc, then finish working "3 sc, inc" two more times. (5 + 3 + 15 + 3 + 10 = 36 sts)
Cut the yarn and weave in the ends neatly — since this piece stays flat, there's no further shaping needed here.
Repeat this exact 5-round sole pattern to make a second sole in the other color, then repeat both again for your second sandal (4 soles total).
Joining the Two Soles of One Sandal
Place the honey sole and the dark coffee sole together, wrong sides facing each other, lining up the centers of both pieces. Start with a slip knot positioned right between the two layers so the knot ends up hidden once you're done. Work a sl st through both layers together — through the corresponding stitch on each sole at the same time — all the way around the entire edge, joining the two pieces into one sandwich. Keep your tension relaxed rather than tight, so the seam doesn't pucker, but firm enough that the two layers hug together neatly and form a clean defined edge. Once you've worked all the way around, cut the yarn, tie off, and weave in your ends so nothing crosses visibly on the outside.
The Strap ("Capellada")
In dark coffee color, chain 18.
Rows 1–3: Work 17 sc across, starting in the 2nd chain from the hook, turning at the end of each row as usual. Repeat for a total of 3 rows of 17 sc.
Leave a long tail when you finish — you'll use it to attach the strap to the sole.
Attaching the Strap to the Sole
Count 12 stitches in from the center/toe point of the sole before you start attaching the strap. Using your tail, sew the strap down on one side by catching the top loop of each of its 3 rows (one loop per row, 3 loops total), tacking it securely in place.
Once that side is secured, pass your needle between the two sole layers, through the inside of the little shoe, and bring it back out exactly 12 stitches further along — at the 13th stitch from where you started. Pull snug to hold the strap in position. From here, attach the other end of the strap with three small stitches, catching only the back loop of the sole stitch each time, securing it firmly on this side too.
Finishing Touches
Instead of the little flower accents you might see on other amigurumi shoes, Teodoro's sandals get a small button sewn onto each side of the strap instead — one button per side, sewn on with honey-colored thread (the same shade used for the sole base) to keep everything looking cohesive.
Repeat the entire sandal process — soles, joining, strap, and buttons — to make a matching second sandal.
That covers Teodoro's feet, legs, body, neck, head, and his two neat little sandals — a solid amount of work, but each section builds naturally on the last, and there's something satisfying about watching this dapper little goose take shape piece by piece. From here, the character comes together further with his outfit, his little carrying bag, and his face — but the foundation you've built through this part of the pattern is really the heart of the whole project.
